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Friction welding 3D Plastic Parts
Just read this article....I always used a soldering iron and a piece of plastic from my filament...kinda like tig welding.

Have yall used this method or any others?

http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/01/07/friction-welding-3d-print/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=3DPI%2BFacebook
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nathan - genius
9 years, 3 months ago
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fabhappy - Thanks for reminding me! I had planned this for a weekend activity with the kids and completely forgot. Gonna go charge up the Dremel now. :)
9 years, 3 months ago
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mjgraham - If your printing in ABS you can chemically weld with acetone or methyl ethyl key-tone. You can pick some up at your local hardware store in the paint section. Be careful though. Wear gloves and safety glasses. Both chemicals are nasty and smelly to work with. I have also noticed that acetone leaves a white film on the surface of the parts.
9 years, 3 months ago
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vinnie90 - I actually tested the friction welding the other day. I would have to say that it is by far the strongest type of weld to do. I cant rip the parts apart.
9 years, 3 months ago
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elpulpo - Wow! That's very cool! Maybe I can take the Lixpen off my "Stuff-to-buy" list.

http://lixpen.com

@mjgraham. I've done quite a bit of vapour smoothing and bonding ABS with both Acetone and MEK. I've found that the white film you're talking about only happens in a humid environment. I think it may be the acetone cooling the surface as it evaporates and causing water from the air to condense on it before it's fully dried. It's a very temperature and humidity sensitive process. Both of the Acetone vapour and the workpiece. Far as bonding is concerned, I've found that the best way to do it is to "prime" the surfaces with Acetone and then use ABS/Acetone slurry as the actual cement or glue.
9 years, 3 months ago
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vinnie90 - I have the 3Doodler and it does not weld parts together.
9 years, 3 months ago
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