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Multi-color, dual extrusion advice
A customer wants to inlay text into the surface of a 3D printed part; and he wants the text to be one color and the surface another color.

Would you use dual extrusion for this? Or would you just print in color A until you hit the highest layer of the inlay, and then switch to color B to finish off the surface?
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raykholo - If I'm reading 'inlay' correctly, it would have to be dual extrusion.
I imagine this is text has a certain height and there is a body around the text which is a different color, going up to the same height. You'd need a dual extruder for that.

If the body up to the inlay can be the same color, and can be the other color above that, as you said, then you can do the switch method described. But the 2 options require different models for Slicing.

If you want to do a switch, in Repetier host you can look at the layers of gCode individually, and once you get to the layer you want to switch at, I'm hoping there is a command you can insert to trigger the pause automatically. Have the x move to the side and dwell.
9 years, 7 months ago
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raykholo - Ah, here we are: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M226:_Gcode_Initiated_Pause

Insert M226 in its own line where the layer changes, and then, for example, "G0 X2" to get the head out of the way.

Please test this on something basic first!
9 years, 7 months ago
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danoperl - Dual extrusion is certainly possible, but by true definition inlay is just that, "inlaid" Craftsmen would insert by hand the pieces to be inset, jewelry, guitars, woodwork etc. You might consider printing separately and gluing in the pieces in place with acetone.
9 years, 7 months ago
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vinnie90 - Yea, remember anything is possible with printing. You DONT have to have a dual.

It would be "easier" with a dual. However, I sometimes prefer to do it this way, because it sometimes is easier, quicker, and works the first time.

Create 2 stls. Then edit the files that they have male and female parts that plug into each other. That way it is centered exactly where you want it, also stronger than dual extrusion. Print each one separate on the printer with appropriate colors.
9 years, 7 months ago
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makerbeck - If you only have a hammer, everything is a nail. I find that it is useful to think of my printers as tools, but not my only tools for getting something done.

One option as mentioned is to do it in dual extrusion.
A second is to do what Nathan suggested which would work with recessed letters that are colored at the bottom but not a real inlay.
A third option, if the letters are big enough is to print separately and assemble. A little tricky but doable.

...but here is a hammer and screwdriver option...
Print it with the inset text empty and then add a material like latex caulk or paint to fill in the letters. Just put it on and wipe off the excess (I use a water based latex caulk). This has worked on very tiny letters where the dual extrusion is not satisfactory.
9 years, 7 months ago
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nathan - Awesome stuff.

I was under the impression that the customer was after recessed letters, but will find out.

If that's not the case, will refer to one of you guys.
9 years, 7 months ago
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bmmal - You could also just make the lettering a separate part that drops in after printing.
9 years, 7 months ago
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mkapras - If you are going to use a z-pause and switch filament colors, you could actually use color A from the bottom all the way up to where the "roof" of the bottom of the inlay letters are, switch to the inlay letter color for just the 3 or 4 layers of that "roof" and then switch back to the main color to finish up the rest of the print. The edges will show only 0.3 or 0.4 mm of the inlay color if you look at the object from the sides, but from the top, you see mostly main color with the letters inlaid with a different color.
9 years, 7 months ago
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raykholo - mkapras - that's an awesome idea. After my spiel above, I realized Nathan has a Replicator 2 which won't play nice with Repetier-host and readable text g-code. And converting reprap gCode to Makerbot x3g would be a pain if one wanted to insert the pause function and then resume thru the printer's LCD.

But this video from Makerbot shows that everything can be done manually, as we already knew: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-fVOgKWnGc

9 years, 7 months ago
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mkapras - @raykholo - Thanks. I have Sailfish firmware installed on my Replicator 2. The Z Pause feature is pretty easy to do right from the menu. As soon as the print starts, you can tell it the exact height at which to pause in millimeters. If you know your model, it's pretty easy to get it to pause at exactly the right layer.
9 years, 7 months ago
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2 years, 5 months ago
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