WARNING: IF YOU ATTEMPT TO DO ANYTHING WITH THESE FILES, AND SCREW SOMETHING UP, ITS YOUR OWN DAMN FAULT. EVEN IF YOU SOMEHOW MANAGE TO ENABLE THE LINE, IT IS 400V, IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG, YOU WILL BLOW UP LIKE IN THE FILM DISTRICT 9, DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU. NEITHER MYSELF OR THE THINGIVERSE CAN BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR IDIOCY. I was offended when I heard that the cost of this plug was over $3000, so I said to hell with them and started developing my own. (I have since heard that the price can drop to about $2500 each if you buy 100) Source of other dimensions are primarily here, but I also took my own measurements http://www.dyden.co.jp/topics/data/pdf/evkyusoku17p.pdf (pg 4) Files created with blender, exported STL files repaired with netfab studio basic. The point of this is to enable experimentation, not commercial production. So naturally, this is not engineered to be water tight or have the durability to be driven-over by a car. Safety nazis need not enquire. The community collaboration is here: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=13349 These 3d printed parts are meant to enable experimentation and development, not commercial production. I envision a charger that is portable, isolated, and can do 17-20kw. Across Canada is the world's longest greenest highway, j1772 charging stations for free along the trans canada highway, which is totally impractical in anything except a tesla with a dual charger. With a portable chademo, any chademo enabled car could fully utilize these chargers. You could also have the option of running off 2 separate 240V 50a connections (like at an RV park) with the right inputs. That's where we need community collaboration, I have strengths in mechanical, and electronic hardware, however software programming is not really my thing. I hope one day we can not only charge in the manner above, but also charge/boost another vehicle, or power your home with affordable, obtainable electronics. (what is currently in the press is certainly not obtainable by mere mortals and quite definitely not affordable) Rule 1 - DO NOT TOUCH any plug/cable when the charger is running. Rule 2 - Do not use when there is any kind of moisture falling on the car/charger/cables (liquid or solid). Rule 3 - Abort the charge if the any power pin temperature reaches 50 degrees C (hot to the touch, but no risk of melting ABS plastic). Rule 4 - Do not leave unattended. If any potential curious and uninformed people come near the car, abort the charge. Rule 5 - DO NOT TOUCH any plug/cable when the charger is running. Credit to MAKERFAM for pistol grip thing:121658 Rubberband Gun all pieces single plate, raft only. Dowels included.WARNING: IF YOU ATTEMPT TO DO ANYTHING WITH THESE FILES, AND SCREW SOMETHING UP, ITS YOUR OWN DAMN FAULT. EVEN IF YOU SOMEHOW MANAGE TO ENABLE THE LINE, IT IS 400V, IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG, YOU WILL BLOW UP LIKE IN THE FILM DISTRICT 9, DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU. NEITHER MYSELF OR THE THINGIVERSE CAN BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR IDIOCY. Print with support, make sure your machine is calibrated accurately. The handles will need to be rotated as they just barely fit the print bed of a reprap prusa mendel. (biggest things I ever printed). (I have a makergear unit) The plug tip and pin holder MUST be printed in a high temperature plastic such as ABS. Do not use PLA for the tip and holder. The rest of the parts can be PLA if you prefer. My layer thickness was 0.3mm for the orange ABS sections, and 0.4mm (different nozzle) for the white PLA parts. I have deleted older revisions to make things clear. This one is my final version, so I will be making no further updates. After the plug is printed, the holes for the pins should be cleaned/drilled with 23/64" for the 9mm holes (pins will slide in nicely, and will not wobble). The holes for the data pins will need to be drilled for whatever thickness of neck you have for your data pins. I used 2.8mm EDM brass rod. So I drilled out the holes with a 7/64" bit and then once more about half way down with a 1/8". The tips of the data pins are: digikey part number ED90409-ND (gold pins) are soldered onto the center of the rod using a jig. See this blog post for instructions for the data pins: http://erroneus.myevblog.com/2013/12/15/1-5mm-pins-for-who-knows-what/ The power pins have been much more challenging to obtain, they are 9.0mm nominal with a tolerance of +0.0 -0.1mm I have created a way to build the pins that are good up to 50amps with a 2awg cable. (overkill for ampacity, but good for sinking heat) Details and part numbers are here: (these are the r4 pins) http://erroneus.myevblog.com/2013/10/19/9mm-pins-for-jewelry-or-perhaps-rapid-charging-a-car/ To assemble you will require: 2 power pins (r4) 7 data pins 1 proximity switch 1 plug tip v2.0 1 pin holder v2.1 1 various bits (2 parts of strain relief, trigger and latch) 1 handle_A V3.0 1 handle_B V3.0 11 nuts, size 8-32 11 screws, size 8-32, various lengths, (sorry, I dont have any in front of me to measure) 2 screws to mount proximity switch, (metric) size M2, length is about 10mm) Here is a photo folder that has instructions for assembly, pay attention to the annotations under each photo. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=A24E22DEAC49B01F%211250 The screws are various lengths, but are all 8-32 thread. Here are some part numbers : metal screw 8-32x1/2 metal screw 8-32x1&1/4 metal screw 8-32x2 metal nut 8-32 The proximity switch that this is built for is Digikey PN EG4924-ND Rule 1 - DO NOT TOUCH any plug/cable when the charger is running. Rule 2 - Do not use when there is any kind of moisture falling on the car/charger/cables (liquid or solid). Rule 3 - Abort the charge if the any power pin temperature reaches 50 degrees C (no risk of melting ABS plastic). this requires testing with a probe Rule 4 - Do not leave unattended. If any potential curious and uninformed people come near the car, abort the charge. Rule 5 - DO NOT TOUCH any plug/cable when the charger is running.