Attached is a photo of the device that I constructed out of PVC that holds the FilaStruder at a 45 degree angle. At least for me, it's resulted in much more consistent extrusion when demoing the unit. This was a quick hack that I came up with when showing the Filastruder at the Orlando Mini Maker Faire, but it turned out so nicely I'm sharing it.The support is made from 1/2" diameter PVC. I bought one tube, and chopped it up with an oscillating tool. To assemble it, I started with the front. I started with the very short pieces, each with an L-joint and a T-joint, so the open ends face the same way. I put two short pieces into one, so it looks like an F, then pushed the other very short piece (and joints) so that it forms a rectangle. This is what will fit under the front of the Filastruder. Then I put two long pieces into the open end of the T-joints, so they run to the back of the Filastruder. Then I put two T-joints onto the ends, with the end of the T pointing up. Then I assembled the two other long pieces, the short piece, and the two T-joints into a very tall H. The back of the Filastruder will rest on the cross-bar of the H. I finished the frame by pushing the bottom of the H into T-joints. Then wiggle the structure around so that it lies square on the table, and hammer the assembly together so that the joints lock in place. Put a tight loop of blue painter's tape around the two short pieces at the front. Then put the Filastruder's front on the tape, between the two front cross pieces. The weight of the Filastruder should be on the tape between the front cross-pieces, holding the front firmly on the table. I had to move the fan up a little bit so that it cleared the front cross-piece. Then adjust the arms so that the filament comes straight out the nozzle and down. From there, operate the Filastruder normally. To pack the support for moving, pull the "H" at the back from the T-joints at the bottom. Then you can pack the two "U" shapes around the Filastruder.