UPDATED: Note that the design has been updated on 2/1/12. The improved design has proven much more reliable and sturdy than the original. Pictures of the finished product will replace the outdated first rivision shown.This is a project long in the making. This was one of the very first things I thought of to make if I ever got a MakerBot. No one has coat hooks but plenty of coats. In my office these things are so rare you'd think you have to win them off a terrible Dread Office Supply Clerk in an epic boss battle. This in turn leads to a lot of rather interesting substitutions involving duct-tape and paper clips. But I thought I could improve on that a bit. So here it is, an Adjustable MakerBot Cubicle Coat Hook. I designed it with everyone in mind. I designed it to use 10-32-1/2" Screws with 3/8" nuts. These should be easy to find. I further chose the screws with the flat or Phillips head so there's bound to be a way to tighten it in the office. I also made the back stop adjustable so that it can be moved and secured to any size cubicle wall.I'm really happy with the way this turn out. And I think it looks pretty slick too. Plus I think it could be used for other great things like, holding hats, hanging plants, and small orangutans who have inexplicably found they're way into your office and need a good hook to hang on to.I hope my fellow cubicle drones can make great use of this.UPDATED: 2/1/12 (I tested this design this morning. A couple of notes. One is that with the increased dimensions the part dows print over almost all of the y-axis, so be sure that your position is well calibrated. Also The support stuck into the 'M' on the backstop a little more intrusively this time and was a little more difficult ot remove. However, the big result was that I'm calling this design a success. The teeth on the back were a huge improvement and held into the cubicle wall nicely. I will likely test the weight capacity at lunch, but from I would estimate that it would hold at least 40 lbs! So this is a huge improvement over what we currently have)UPDATED: 1/31/12 (I added a stiffer backstop and teeth on the interior of the backstop. I also added a fillet to the backstop to reduce the stress concentration there. I increased the added more material to the inside of the hook for extra strength. I also added a forward block to reduce the bending moment created by the force on the hook.) Choose the appropriate .stl file. I have one for black ABS and one of white. (These are the only two colors of ABS I've used so far, so the drawings may have to be adjusted a bit to accommodate for different contraction rates for the different ABS colors.)Generate the Gcode in ReplicatorG, using full support. (I suppose int he future I might consider splitting the main body in half to make it easier to print, but full support works fine.)CARFULLY remove the rafting from the two pieces using an Exacto knife. (Please be careful it is really easy to cut yourself with this stuff. The battle scars on my fingers are why I where gloves in all my photos. So be careful.)Also this method comes with a BIG warning. Before you grind the tip off the syringe it is VERY sharp, so be careful not to stick yourself, you could get into a lot of trouble that way. And don't even think about not grinding the tip off. You do this for two reason. First a sharp metal thing and paint don't mix comprende. Some how I don't imagine paint int he bloodstream is going to end well. Second if you don't grind the point off the paint is going to squirt out the side and just make a mess.Install the hardware. You'll need 2 each 10/32-1/2" machine screws in what ever head type you like, and two each 3/8" nuts in 10/32 threading. Load the nuts into the bottom of the backstop and the screws go on top of the slotted main body.