The inherent floppiness of the Prusa frame annoys everyone. Here's my attempt at fixing it. This thing keeps the same rod spacing, though you will gain a little Z height and Y travel at the expense of some X clearance, if the nuts are right at the end of your rods.Also, this thing can produce accurate copies of the Huxley vertex (by editing the scad file), which is not available in openscad format, I believe. Which also inspired me to make this, as I think they look cool.Detailed description I've been wanting to stiffen up the Prusa frame for a while, as my intention is to have a removable carriage for light milling http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11535 . This thread http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,112816 (you'll need to manually copy and paste the whole address, thingiverse's new style can't cope) got me thinking about how to stiffen up the Prusa frame. One thing I never understood is why the triangular section of the frame gets the widest part of the vertex, despite a triangle being inherently strong, leaving the narrow part of the vertex to give strength to the square part of the frame, which has to resist the forces of the X-axis moving around. The Mendel had much wider frame vertices, and it feels like the Prusa's are slimmed down too much. So I have designed these vertices to have the strength the other way around, to hopefully support the weaker square part of the frame.And if that doesn't work, there is also a captive nut space in each foot for bracing the frame.Bracing can be done in one of two ways:Use a square MDF / Plywood / Alumin(i)um sheet with an appropriate cutout, sort of like one side of a Ultimaker/Makerbot, to make the frame rigid without compromising build volume.You can also use captive nuts in the vertices' feet to bolt your Prusa to a board. Feel free to edit the openscad script and come up with vertex dimensions that you feel will improve rigidity.Build volume of the 1-footed vertex is about the same as the standard Prusa footed vertices. The 2-footed vertex is a bit more.I have printed out this thing now, and even without the cross-brace, I would say that the frame was more resilient to flexing and high-speed oscillation. With the cross-brace, which is easily removed, movement is completely eliminated. The heated bed still has full range of movement. The brace is offset away from the build area, but does cut into it, so careful arrangement of tall parts is needed.Questions, observations, comments and/or suggestions all gratefully received.Before printing, check that you can print out the stls to the tolerances - I have set the M8 holes to 8.2mm. I prefer a tight fit, rather than have rods flopping about.Also, all settings are editable in the scad file, if you'd prefer to have the vertex wider/narrower.4a. If you are going to brace one side of your printer with sheet material, contruct the frame with the 2-footed vertex at the bottom on the same side, and 2 of the 1-footed vertices at the top of the frame pointing out the same side. The last 2 1-footed vertices go on the other side, feet down. You will have four attaching points for your sheet. Cut a hole out of it to allow for print bed/part clearance.4b. If you are going to use a cross-brace, put a 1-footed vertex at the top of the frame pointing one way, and one pointing the other. At the bottom of the frame, put a 2-footed vertex on the opposite corner. Once assembled, fit cross-braces.