Almost fully printable and fully functional RC Rally Chassis ready for your electronics and some additional parts... which are simply not printable.German Documentation: Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf2V-1DWsiM Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pzKIgqWE4k Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFaxIND3oXoActual driving: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtneCSx_AAAThis is a fully functional RC Rally Chassis.I got sick of the money I have to pay for replacement parts for my RC Cars so I decided to construct my own. So now I can print my own parts for it and I can make them as strong as I like them to be.Additional parts you need:Several screws, mostly 3mm 2 x LRP S10 Blast TX / TC differentials including housing 4 x Kyoscho TF-02 Spider suspension or compatible. But these have a lot of travel which you want on a rally car 4 x Bling39 CVD cardan drive shafts 8 x ball bearings 11x4x5mm 1 x LRP S10 Blast TX pinion gear with slipper clutch 1 x middle drive shaft from the LRP S10 Blast TX - but it needs to be modified to fit the chassis 1 x push rod for the servo to be connected to the steeringI believe these are the main parts. But these are the parts that usually don't break! So it's ok to buy them ;)The chassis plate is devided into three parts to keep it printable. It is strengthend by 4mm threaded rods and two additional aluminium bars that are connected to the side of the chassis. The buttom of the chassis itself is strengthend with 0.5mm aluminium which can be easiely made cut by hand and then glued to the chassis plate.I also glued the motor mount to the chassis to make it sand prove. The motor cap is missing. I got slightly lazy but you can cut some thick paper and bend it to use it as the cap.I printed the whole thing massive. Meaning: set fill to 1! I know, that is extremly expensive - but still way cheaper than buying replacement parts all the time...One last thing: The upper suspension arms are too thick on the outside. That is on purpose! I wanted my printer to print them correctly and then cut them back as needed. I also used some metal tubes to strengthen all moving parts. So I drilled 3.9mm holes and put the rod in and then cut them. This way the plastic does not wear off so quickly. The bumper should be replaced by some thick foam because the ABS version will break on first contact!Comments are extremly welcome :)