We couldn't get the Infrared Sensor to work, and we needed to level the bed. These were the nut traps we used. The bed pieces are attached, with all 3 parts designed to be cut in 6mm MDF or Acrylic The back plate currently is modified to take the Y belt tensioners as part of a kit we found on the forums. (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?340,294362,page=3 The black ones, ) The holes for mounting it to the bed brace sit a little too high, so we manually shaved off a little of the top of the belt holders with a file. Also, the 3rd hole doesn't line up, but this isn't important, as there is a nut trap inside the printed part, to use bolts to reinforce it. We found our belt to rub and clip on the sides of the original Y idler end after upgrading the Y belt mounts, so we much appreciated this smooth sided tension. On the forums, people have lathed brass bushings with walls to replace the idler bearing. This would be the ideal scenario. (You can buy miniature bearings for RC cars and helicopters that have the same ID as the original, but give you 2mm of OD for a Brass sheath to fit in the original dimensions. Laser cut the bed top, cross rib, and back plate in 6mm acrylic. Print 3 Nut Traps. On the UP! printer we found them to be a perfect fit, but on later printing with the Omerod, they were very tight. For the Ormerod ones, you have to file them on the inside, until it fits. Further, put a bolt through with an M4 nut suspended on the inside of the trap, heat it with contact with a soldering iron, while using pliers and the iron to push it down into the trap slot. Hopefully you have tuned your Ormerod so that this isn't necessary. You will require M4 bolts of at least 30mm in length. Print the Y belt tensioners kit. I haven't used the spacers, and these can removed by clicking the "split" button in Sli3er. When mounting the Y end, be careful with how tight you do it, as PLA is very brittle. the worst part is the bit on the inside of the Y axis, where the end is held at right angles by a countersunk into a T-slot nut. You can seperate the files in Sli3er so that it only prints the Y axis end and tensioner, should you wish to use your own mounting to the bed. The toothed parts which the belt is wrapped round to fix it to the bed, have nut traps in the bottom. This is so you can put a bolt through it for reinforcement. I would strongly recommend this. Take caution in tensioning your belt. Overtensioning is very easy.