A drop-in replacement for the MakerBot stepper drivers that contains all three axes on one board.You can order these from my web site: http://www.tinkerin.gs/p/psmd-pololu-stepper-motor-driver-triple.html Now you can also order these from Seeed Studio!: http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/psmd-triple-axis-driver-p-1029.htmlUpdated: Now smaller (same height as a Gen4 stepper driver and 1/4" wider for 3X the axes), and with dip switches to configure microstepping. Also now has a motor-power-in (or 12V out) screw terminal that can be used to drive the motors on up to 35V. I need to update the files an description.See it in action here (with an early prototype): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TEvwzTABEI&hd=1 And it's not mentioned or shown, but you can see it in action in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iGnlqBLn5s&hd=1This board makes your steppers run at eight times higher resolution (1/16th steps instead of 1/2 steps), making it run smoother and way quieter.I based the design on the MakerBot Stepper Driver v3.0 ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760 ) but with a few notable exceptions:•) I used the Pololu A4983/A4988 ( http://j.mp/pololu-smd2 ) stepper motor driver carrier board for each axis, so three of them are required for all three axes to work. (This was originally designed fo the A4983, but the replacement A4988 works great.) •) Circuitry that is already on the Pololu board has been removed. •) The CD-ROM-style connectors from the Gen4 electronics are used. I used a horizontal-mount connector instead of a vertical mount for mostly cosmetic reasons on the Cupcake, and that may have to be changed for the Thing-o-magic or a RepRap. I'll have to modify the layout to support vertical connectors if they are needed. •) This board is etchable and hand-solderable. This means that, with the exception of the thru-hole capacitor leads, none of the lead holes are used as vias. Also, traces are reasonably far apart, all of the wiring of the thru-hole parts (except the caps) is on the back, and vias (and drilling) are avoided as much as possible. I have provided the PDF I used for toner transfer.I placed the Pololu boards vertically and with nothing under them to provide a natural flow of hot air past them. This is why the capacitors are mounted on the back. If they still show signs of overheating, there are holes at the bottom to mount a 12v CPU fan to blow air up past them and provide cooling. So far, in my testing, the steppers overheat before the drivers.More info about the RepRap testing with Pololu drivers (and my inspiration) here: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_ElectronicsUpdate 1: Oops, I forgot to post my machines.xml. Now it's up.For assembly of the older (pre-v0.6) boards, follow the directions at http://www.flickr.com/photos/giseburt/sets/72157625473951054/ keeping in mind that there are a few changes from the PCB shown that are explained in the descriptions.Mount the capacitors on the back, and if you're etching a board yourself, you'll need to solder the legs on both he back and front. Those are the only place I did that. I recommend soldering all of the surface mount stuff first. It's hard to get to with the headers an stuff in the way. This is the 13 LEDs and 12 resistors if you're not doing the extra power circuitry. There are all large-pad (non-pinned) SMD parts, and are easy to solder by hand. Technically, the LEDs and their three resistors are optional, but very helpful to see what's happening.The LEDs are in groups of two, from top to bottom. Each group of two should have one oriented one way, and the other the opposite way. So, for example, the top two would be red, one oriented to the left, and the other oriented to the right. From top to bottom, it would be: Z: 1) Red Led (to the left) 2) Red Led (to the right) 3) Green Led (to the left) 4) Green Led (to the right)Y: 1) Red Led (to the left) 2) Red Led (to the right) 3) Green Led (to the left) 4) Green Led (to the right)X: 1) Red Led (to the left) 2) Red Led (to the right) 3) Green Led (to the left) 4) Green Led (to the right)