This Boat is obsolete! Please Visit my page for version 6! Well, this is still under construction! Eventually this boat will be all 3d printed. Currently I have not added power or equipment, and this is ONLY a floating model at the time being! When this boat is complete, it will only need electronics, prop, and motor shaft. It is meant to be a racer, and will be able to fit up to a 25x25mm outrunner between 2400-3200kv. It will use the Horizon Hobby ProBoat components for drive shaft, coupler, and prop. The design is public and open source and I Encourage all of us to share and update this thing. Lets make a fun, fast, and easy to build pond boat! For more info you can follow the thread at: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2231485 If you Print this thing, please take some photos and leave some feed back! If you make changes, please send over or post the files for future use, or adaptation to the current file! NOTE: Do not download the Boat Prelim_2.STL, It is not a compatible file, and was only uploaded to provide a 3d thingview of the final product. Also, I included both the original .STL, as well as .STL fixed from NetFabb. I know different software does and does not like different files... I for one have no problem with either the fixed or the original. The Fixed files are located in a .Zip folder.Design is very simple, and should take about 2-3 hours to print. I am lazy, so I print it at .3mm layers and 45mm/s. I use cura slicer, but due to its easy construction, and slicer should do an adequate job. I have been printing Arms, Sponsons, and Aft Floats at 15-20% infill (keeps it light, yet ensures support for the side walls. I print all 3 of these at once, and it turns out excellent. The tub is about as large as it can be, while fitting MOST printers...It must be printed in halves, one at a time, and placed diagonally on a 200x200 build plate. (I am printing on a solidoodle 3, diagonally)... -Assembly is VERY simple. -After printing all the parts, You simple apply a thin layer of medium CA to the edge of one half of the tub, doesn't really matter which side, but I usually do the female, just because. Then slide the Sponson Arm through the opening in the tub. Now slide the other half of the tub, onto the arm and squeeze it together with the glued half. Soon it is one solid tub, and the sponson arm should be free to move. -Glue the top hatch together just as you did the tub. Next I press in and glue either the left or right sponson in place on the arm. It should, (if printed accurately) sit in with a nice fit, and should align perfectly to be straight. Then I glue on the other sponson. My prints have all turned out 100% straight, but if you have any doubts you can always check sponson alignment. Gluing is the same way as the tub, put some dabs of CA in the female side (sponson) then press in the arm. -At this point the outrigger (sponsons and sponson arm) are glued and moving freely (with a snug fit) in the (now one piece) Tub. Ensure you have proper alignment (straight and true). This can be done by measuring the outer, rear corner, of a sponson, to the aft rear corner of the tub, and ensuring they are the same on both sides. -Now you simply add a fillet of CA around the arm/tub intersection. -Last but not least, add a perimeter of glue around the aft floats, as well as on the anchoring "notch" and press them into the tub. Alas! A semi-completed boat! Now add in your equipment! Soon to come, integrated driveline shaft, removable motor mount, and rudder mount. (still contemplating on whether or not to use an outsourced rudder, an exacto knife with printed attachment, or a printed rudder assembly...). -If you print this, be nice! As mentioned it has not been powered yet, so I am not sure if it will get up on plane in a hurry, or how well it will drive. Time will tell!