This is a simple, temporary workaround for misbehaving Thing-o-Matic ABPs. It seems that a lot of folks are having trouble getting good prints out of their ABP's. I am one of those folks. I've had some limited success with an experimental ABP belt made out of 1010 steel, but realized that in order to make it work well, I would need to redesign several pieces of the ABP body itself. I saw some really cool things on Thingiverse and wanted to print them NOW (kinda like Veruca from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, "but I want it NOW daddy..."). I wanted a primo HBP without having to tear down my current ABP. Pros of this workaround: -A flat, rock-stable build platform -The use of raftless printing with the stability of a huge, easy-to-remove raft -Finally gives you a good use for your scrap ABS -A non-destructive mod; when an improvement to the ABP belt comes along, you will not have burned any bridges -No more exposed SHCS's on your build surface for your extruder nozzle to crash into Cons: -You will need to re-set your Z-axis calibration value -No more ABP conveyor belt action for you; one print at a time -Requires the use of acetone; you must use proper ventilation/safety precautions with acetone to prevent fire/explosionWARNING: Acetone is extremely flammable and can cause flash-fires or explosions. Follow manufacturers directions. Neither myself nor Thingiverse will be held responsible for the use or misuse of this information (sorry, you know it has to be said).Weasel a piece of 0.125 inch thick aluminum measuring 4.75 inches square. If you can't source this locally, Onlinemetals.com and speedymetals.com sell aluminum in small quantities. Even hard aluminum alloys like 6061-T6 (which is what I used) can be cut to size using a hacksaw and hand files.Remove the belt, rollers, and associated bushings/hardware from your ABP and store them safely for a later date.Disconnect and remove the heater PCB from your build platform. Use the PCB as a template to accurately mark the locations of the screw holes onto your piece of aluminum. Mark the three holes along each side of the board, ignoring the center holes at the center front and rear of the ABP. Mark the corner where the silicone wiper is located. Mark the area where the wiring header extends slightly onto the build surface.Set the heater board safely aside and drill a 7/32 hole through your marks on the aluminum. Using a file, or a piece of coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood, slightly notch the area you marked around the wiring header so the aluminum won't interfere with the header. Use a hacksaw to cut out the space for your wiper to fit. Reinstall and reconnect your heater board. Your plate should now drop into position over the cap screws. The cap screws should keep it from sliding on the heater board. If it won't quite fit, sand or file one or more of the holes until the plate just fits.Almost done. Remove the aluminum plate and lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper then wipe clean with acetone. Following manufacturers safety instructions, mix a few cc's of acetone with some scraps of ABS plastic in an acetone-proof container. When this turns to a thin goo/slurry, paint a thin layer onto the aluminum plate and let it dry to the touch; this usually only takes a few seconds. Note: to avoid fire, never re-coat your aluminum plate while it is in the makerbot; remove it from the ABP to re-coat.Drop the plate onto your build platform, re-set your Z-axis calibration value for the new build platform height and print using your regular ABP settings. The thin layer of ABS in acetone makes an uber-raft: Easy to remove from the aluminum, printed objects stick to it like glue, super-thin (0.001-0.004 inches on average). If you print a small object, just scratch the "raft" around the object with the tip of an Xacto blade. The printed part with come off leaving a naked spot on the aluminum. Dip your brush in the acetone/ABS slurry and fill in the spot; no need to re-coat the whole plate. After just a few prints, I'm at the point where I can re-raft the plate in about 15 seconds. Beats the heck out of waiting 15 minutes for a raft to print, wasting plastic, and having to deal with rafts that peel/curl up or are impossible to remove from the print. Since the plate just lifts off the build platform, you can easily do all of your work outside the confines of the Thing-o-matic. Your cabling will thank you.I know this is an oddball post, but it has worked so well for me that I had to share. I included pix of components of 2ROBOTGUY's Launch Pad printed with my standard ABP belt (badly wonked) and my Veruca Plate (awesomely smooth and flat).Yes Veruca darling, you can have it right now.