This mount is for adding a custom thermostat to your FlashForge Dreamer for controlling the internal build temperature. I created this project because my FlashForge Dreamer is the version without a thermostat controlled interior temperature, and no fans on the back, so it could overheat when printing with ABS with the lid is on. To solve overheating issues and to improve printing of overhangs I added a custom thermostat to my Dreamer that's used to automatically turn on 4 extra cooling fans I installed (2 on the back and 2 on the sides). I also have my fans connected to a switch so that I can manually turn them on if needed (the switch is not covered in this article). Some versions of the Dreamer already have fans on the back which are thermostatically controlled. If your Dreamer is that version, then this will probably be of little benefit to you. The mount consists of 4 pieces. Why use magnets? Why not screws or bolts for everything? The mounting location doesn't allow for the use of bolts because I have no access to the back side between the mounting location and the sidewall of the Dreamer, unless I wanted to drill holes in the side wall, which is not something I wanted to do. The mounting location chosen for the thermostat already contained 4 screw holes which are not used in my FlashForge Dreamer. So I made use of them. By using these existing screw holes, I didn't need to drill any additional holes in the Dreamer's body. However, this location is quite difficult to get access to. If I needed to remove the thermostat for some reason, unscrewing it would be difficult, and would eventually strip the plastic screw holes. I wanted a convenient way to install and remove the thermostat, but I didn't want to wear out the screw holes on the Dreamer. I could have opted to make a plate that screws into this location that has it's own screw holes for attaching the thermostat to, but that would not solve the problem of the plastic screw holes eventually stripping. It just moves the stripping to a different location. Since I couldn't easily use bolts in this location, I needed another solution. I decided to design the ThermostatMagnetPlate to be a permanent part of my printer. I never plan to remove it because I don't want to strip the screw holes on the Dreamer. Instead of mounting the thermostat using screws, onto this plate, I decided to use magnets. Magnets will not cause wear on the Dreamer's body. With this design, using the magnets, I can remove the thermostat dozens of times without needing any tools and I don't need to worry about ever stripping the screw holes. So while the magnets are an extra step to do initially, they are cheap, and they make maintenance work a breeze. The neodymium magnets are extremely strong. They hold the thermostat securely in place. You have to seriously pull the thermostat piece with force before it comes loose from the magnet mount. There's no worry of it coming off on it's own. Why use neodymium magnets and not other magnets? Neodymium magnets are super strong, they are not the typical magnet most people are used to. They have considerable pulling force. I wouldn't consider using regular magnets for this project. With the neodymium magnets, the thermostat almost feels like its bolted down. It's that strong. You will be surprised how strong they hold the thermostat in place. If the typical ceramic or ferrite magnets were used, it would be possible to shake the thermostat lose with a strong bump to the side of the printer. That's not possible with the neodymium magnets. Unless you forcefully pull off the thermostat, it's staying put! For side fan mounts see here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667612 For back fan short filament guide tubing clips see here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667620 The thermostat I used is a 12v DC thermostat. It can be set to turn on or off at any particular temperature I need between -50-110 °C. I have mine set to turn on fans at 50 C currently. (I have also wired up a switch to bypass the thermostat, but that's not part of this project). The exact thermostat I used is a cheap generic thermostat found at these locations: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFK7FA http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Waterproof/dp/B00KCCX0EE There is unfortunately no company name on it. The model number is W1209. It has been working well for many months. It's got quite a bit of settings to tweak using the 3 front buttons. Making temperature changes requires just touch 2 buttons. It's very easy to use. For this project I used a SMAKN DC/DC 24V to 12V/6A Step Down Converter. It can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3YN9H2 All wires were 18 gauge. The FlashForge Dreamer uses standard M3 nuts and bolts. I used two M3 nuts for attaching the sensor, and step down converter. For the thermostat mount, I used four #3 x 5/8" screws. Fans should be 80x80x15mm fans. I used 12 V DC fans, but 24 V DC fans can also be used. The fans altogether should not use more than 1.4 amps. Neodymium magnets with a diameter of 1/4" with a thickness of 1/16" THERE MAY BE SOME MISSING DETAILS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS. I WILL GO OVER THIS AGAIN LATER WHEN I HAVE TIME TO ENSURE THAT EVERYTHING IS CORRECT. IF YOU NEED ANY HELP OR NOTICED ANY INSTRUCTIONS MISSING PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT. THANKS.UNPLUG THE FLASHFORGE DREAMER BEFORE MAKING ANY MODIFIATIONS TO IT THIS MODIFICATION VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY Performing these modifications will absolutely void your FlashForge Dreamer's warranty! And if not done correctly, they could damage your FlashForge Dreamer's power supply! DO NOT MODIFY ANYTHING CONNECTED TO THE FLASHFORGE DREAMER'S CIRCUIT BOARDS! Only connect additional hardware to the power supply. POWER SUPPLY TOUGHNESS The FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 power supply is not easily damaged. It has built in protection against short circuit, overload, over voltage, and overheating. If for some reason the power supply is damaged (not likely, it's well made) another one can be easily purchased. It's a standard power supply used by hundreds of products. It's not specific to the FlashForge Dreamer. It supplies plenty of additional power for wiring up the thermostat. As long as you wire up everything correctly and don't use parts not in this project there's no worry about damaging the power supply. If you wire up everything correctly but use fans that together require more than 1.4 amps, you could possibly cause the power supply to fail, however it is very well made, and is likely to shut down rather than fail. FlashForge put a good powersupply in the Dreamer. A new Mean Well NES-350-24 power supply can be purchased here: http://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-NES-350-24-Switching-Supply-OlympianLED/dp/B00KTJE3L4 NOTE: It's possible that some Dreamer versions have a different power supply. If so, make sure you can purchase a replacement power supply just in case things do wrong! The magnetic discs used in this project are neodymium magnets with a diameter of 1/4" with a thickness of 1/16". Do not substitute the magnets with different magnets. They must be the same size and they must be neodymium magnets. Other magnets of this size are too weak to hold the thermostat and parts securely. Using super glue, glue magnets into ThermostatMagnetPlate. Make sure that all the magnets have the same pole facing up. Don't mix north and south poles. Let the super glue dry. Put 4 magnets into the 4 magnet depressions in the face of the ThermostatMagnetMount. To ensure that the magnets are in the correct pole position, place the ThermostatMagnetMount on top of the ThermostatMagnetPlate so that the magnets on the ThermostatMagnetMount will pull towards the magnets on the ThermostatMagnetPlate directly through the plastic back of the ThermostatMagnetMount. If the magnetic pole positions are correct, the two pieces should stick together by the power of the 8 magnets without any magnets jumping. Cover the magnets with ThermostatMagnetCover to hold them in place. Screw the thermostat board (no wires attached yet) on top of the two so that ThermostatMagnetCover is sandwiched between the thermostat board and the ThermostatMagnetMount. Test that the magnets are properly positioned by putting these pieces on top of the ThermostatMagnetPlate. All pieces should hold together tightly at all 4 corners if the magnets are positioned correctly. If not, re-position the magnets. Screw the ThermostatMagnetPlate into the 4 screw holes on the left side of the FlashForge Dreamer using small screws (see the photos for details on the position). The magnets will be facing inwards towards the build plate not towards the Dreamer's side wall. I use #3 x 5/8 flat head Phillips screws to attach the ThermostatMagnetPlate to the side of the Dreamer. Do not over-tighten or you risk stripping the screw holes on the Dreamer's side wall. Without unscrewing any existing Dreamer nuts, using an additional M3 size nut attach the ThermostatSensorHolder into the side of the printer using the top existing bolt that holds the front left side Y axis bar in place (see photos for details). Note that there are two screw holes in ThermostatSensorHolder. The Dreamer's existing bolt ends will go into both screw holes, but the additional M3 nut will only be screwed onto the top bolt. This is enough to secure the ThermostatSensorHolder in place. DO NOT UNSCREW THE EXISTING M3 NUTS. You will attach the ThermostatSensorHolder over the existing nuts. On my Dreamer there is enough of the bolts extending out of the existing nuts to attach the ThermostatSensorHolder to. Note: If your Dreamer version uses shorter bolts, this might be a problem. It is very difficult to remove the nuts in this location of the Dreamer. I advise not removing them. If there's not enough of the bolt to attach the ThermostatSensorHolder to using an additional M3 nut, I recommend using super glue or a hot glue gun to glue the part into place. Remove the bottom of the Dreamer to access the power supply. Unscrew the FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 power supply from the floor of the Dreamer so that you can access the power terminals on the power supply. Add two 18 gauge wires, one red wire is added to the +24 V terminal and one black wire is added to the -24 volt terminals. I used about 1 foot of wire for each terminal. Then screw the power supply back into the bottom of the Dreamer. Secure the step down converter to the bottom of the Dreamer using an existing bolt end, and then adding an additional M3 nut to hold the step down converter in place. See the photo for the location I used. If none of the bolts extend far enough to add the step down converter, then replace one of the bolts with a longer bolt, for find an unused bolt hole. On my Dreamer there are a few unused bolt holes that I could have used. Connect the FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 +24 VDC terminal to the step down converter's (+) IN terminal. Connect the FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 -24 VDC terminal to the step down converter's (-) IN terminal. I used 18 gauge wire, and when I needed to connect 2 or more wires together I used crimp butt splice connectors. I did no soldering at all. The K0 and K1 terminals on the thermostat board are the relay terminals which act as a switch to turn on a device, in my case it turns on 4 12 volt DC 80x80x15 fans. K0 and K1 do not supply power. They are just relay terminals acting as a switch for what's connected to them. The fans need their own power. To power the thermostat, connect the step down converter's (+) out terminal to the thermostat's +12 V terminal. Connect the step down converter's (-) out terminal to the thermostat's GND terminal. How you add your fans is up to you. I used 12 volt DC fans. You could also use 24 volt DC fan. My 4 fans together use 1.4 amps. It's not advised to go much higher than that. If using 12 volt DC fans, as I did, then power them in parallel by connecting all -12 volt DC fan terminals to K1 on the thermostat. Connect all +12 volt DC fan terminals directly to the step down converter's (+) out terminal. Connect the K0 terminal to the step down converter's (-) out terminal. In this case, both the thermostat and the fans are being powered by the step down converter. Note that the step down converter only has enough out terminals to wire up 1 device, not 2 devices. You'll need to make a Y connection with your wires so that you can wire 2 devices to the out terminals. If using 24 volt DC fans, power them in parallel by connecting all -24 volt DC fan terminals to K1 on the thermostat. Connect all +24 volt DC fan terminals directly to the FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 +24 VDC terminal. Connect the K0 terminal to the FlashForge Dreamer's Mean Well NES-350-24 -24 VDC terminal. Note that you can double up connections on the power supply terminals if there isn't enough terminals left for additional connections. Screw the Dreamer's bottom back onto the Dreamer. After wiring is complete, Install the thermostat by placing the ThermostatMagnetMount on top of the face of the ThermostatMagnetPlate. The magnets will hold it securely in place. Hang the metal thermostat sensor in the sensor holder (the wire going down). Wrap the wire around the back of the thermostat mount location enough times so that the wire is not too loose and then plug the thermostat's sensor into the thermostat board. THERE MAY BE SOME MISSING DETAILS IN THE INSTRUCTIONS. I WILL GO OVER THIS AGAIN LATER WHEN I HAVE TIME TO ENSURE THAT EVERYTHING IS CORRECT. IF YOU NEED ANY HELP OR NOTICED ANY INSTRUCTIONS MISSING PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT. THANKS.