Looking for ways to rebuild my two cupcakes in the search of the uber-cupcake, I stumbled on tinkerings' hybrid pololu / makerbot stepper driver. This thing is awesome and I had to have one. But looking at it closer I thought the trace routing could be a bit better with larger traces, tighter tolerances, and I felt it needed a little more power. So I rerouted the board, brought everything up to the top layer (dip switches would be worlds easier to adjust without taking the board off the bot), changed all the surface mount parts to 0805, and added an ATX-4 connector for a little more amperage. I also removed three of the endstop connections (because who really needs six?) to reduce the size of the board even more. Now its only a tiny bit bigger than the existing makerbot stepper drivers. With the right capacitors I still think it gets pretty good airflow under the drivers... these A4983 drivers rock and don't get too hot on the makerbot.Update: Everything works like a charm! The images show the cupcake after installation and even though my wiring is not fully done it makes a huge difference in the tidiness of the electronics. If my x carriage wasn't acting up the bot would be much quieter... the extruder motor is louder than the steppers.Update: Make sure that the belt tension is adjusted properly, as in looser than you think should even work - this was my problem with the x carriage. Then you need to dial back the current using the trimpot on the pololus until the motors move smoothly and quietly. Properly adjusted this thing is as quiet, well, as quiet as a resonant plywood box can be.Update: This board has been built, tested, and approved by monkeys. I do not plan to make kits myself so if that is something you want to do then knock yourself out. The total approximate cost for this entire board is about $75 out the door if you choose to make one. Thats not bad and of course an economy of scale kicks in if you want to make a batch of them. To put the parts together, you can order the PCB from BatchPCB http://batchpcb.com/index.php/Upload or any board house of your choice. After creating an account, all you need to do is upload the attached zip file containing all of the processed gerber files. This has passed DRC and is a proven design. Just upload and order one. The files should also work fine through other vendors as well. For example, you could get about 20 of these for $100 through Gold Phoenix http://www.goldphoenixpcb.biz/special_price.php. For parts, this thing has been saved as a project at Mouser http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f46921ee6f. You should be able to order all the little parts there although I would add a handful of extra resistors just in case you loose one (and it happens). Finally you will need from Pololu, three A4983 stepper drivers http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1201 and six 8-pin female headers http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1018. These pins worked but required a little filing to get them to fit side by side. One long continuous strip of 24pins for each side would be better if you can find them. To put it together, start with the small parts like resistors and LEDs first and work up to the bigger things saving the through hole parts like sockets until the end. It was easier for me to solder the electrolytic capacitors before doing the dip switches but YMMV. Soldering these things is not too hard, just take your time. I find it easiest to put a little solder on one pad and then slide the part into the solder puddle using tweezers and then let go. When the solder is cool, solder the other pad. When its all put together be sure to plug the pololu drivers the right way around. The current adjusting potentiometer should be closest to the 4 pin end stop connectors. This would be up if looking at the text as right reading or down if you mount the board like I did in the photos. Note: The four pin molex power connector on this driver board is for 12volts only. This should be the connector on your power supply with 2 yellow and 2 black wires and not part of the 24 pin connector that plugs into the motherboard. Once its up and running you need to use the machines.xml file worked up by tinkerin.gs posted below for convenience and choose Driver → Cupcake CNC (with 1/16th step Pololu Driver). This file should be updated when I get around to it. The last thing to do is adjust the current trimpots to get the motors moving each axis without overheating the drivers. Starting completely counter clockwise (with the trimpot pointing up) turn the trimpot until the axes are moving properly. With the motors eneabled in the control panel, you should not be able to move any of the axes by hand. If it skips, the current needs to be increased. And thats it! I hope this is helpful to someone out there.Cheers!