About me

CALCULATE YOUR BUILD COST:
Cost with USPS Priority shipping ($) = 70+V*(C/500+10/T)
V = total volume of your parts (cc)
C = cost of resin ($/liter)
T = layer thickness (microns)
Prices are subject to change at any time. I may modify pricing for a specific part if its geometry is especially difficult for stereolithography.

The print envelope dimensions of Form1+ are 125x 125y 165z. You can build larger parts by printing in pieces and bonding the pieces together, either by gluing or by wetting the mating surfaces with resin and exposing to UV light. Use of a wicking instant adhesive such as Loctite 406 is the most convenient way to bond pieces together.

Resin I stock:
MadeSolid Vorex $135/liter (impact resistant, translucent orange)
FormLabs V2 Clear $150/liter (nearly colorless, transparent)
Contact me if you want flexible resin, investment casting resin, or a resin of a specific color. For a stocking fee I will build your parts with any Form1+ compatible resin you desire.

Layer thickness recommendations:
For mechanical prototypes, save some money and go for the coarsest layer thickness, which is 100 microns for most resins on the Form1+. FormLabs V2 Clear resin can print as coarse as 200 microns. If you want printed parts in an assembly to fit together very closely, secondary operations are how you accomplish that, not by reducing layer thickness. By secondary operations I mean reaming or tapping holes, filing or milling flat surfaces, use of coarse lapping compound, etc., which are services I can provide for a fee. Similarly, to get a very smooth surface on an aesthetic part, wet sanding is best when feasible, not reducing layer thickness. Small layer thicknesses are typically used when the part needs a smooth surface but it has features that are too small or intricate to easily wet sand, e.g. jewelry. In those cases a 50 micron layer thickness is a good first choice. Form1+ can print as fine as 25 micron layer thickness, but the visible difference between the 50 and 25 micron setting is subtle.

Add $5 for a Hakko CHP-170 flush cutter
Add $2 for a 3M or Norton extra fine grit sanding sponge

I leave stereolithography support structures attached to customer parts, because that is the cheapest and fastest way to deliver parts. Generally hand-finishing is best done by the customer, because aesthetic requirements are difficult to communicate. I may remove some of the support structure to fit your parts into a USPS Priority flat rate box.

You'll need a flush-cutting plier to remove the support structure. Wet sanding is the best way to smooth any surface roughness left behind by clipped supports. To prepare for painting, I recommend Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (available at any hobby shop) and very fine sandpaper. To polish the resin itself use Novus products.

I'm am a:
> Design engineer with 14 years of machine design and product development experience ranging from factory automation to biologics & medical devices
> Licensed Professional Engineer
> ASME Senior Geometric Dimensioning & Tolerancing Professional

SolidWorks is my CAD platform.

My design philosophy:
1. Form follows function
2. Design-for-manufacturability (DFM) is integral to design