George Orwell's 1984 is here in your living room with Xbox Kinect. (Sure, GM has had Onstar for a while, but that is audio only.)We call the Kinect the "Eye of Sauron" so print and pop Sauron's Shades on for that romantic interlude or whenever you want to put the blinders on Sauron without the hassle of turning it completely off. Just remember audio is still on.Designed for Print 'O Matic 2 shells .3mm layer height 20% fill. Sauron's front face text is inset .9mm.It's right at 100mm so should fit on a HBP just fine and is just long enough to cover the lenses on the Kinect. You may consider stretching it a tad if you're well set up and know your max dimensionsI've been contemplating a hole aligned with the Power LED but haven't yet. This because how are you going to know Sauron's Shades aren't just mis-aligned and power really is on? Probably I'll put it in to the design file.You can drill this hole as in the picture. 1.5" from the left side and 11/16" up from the bottom. It's close to the side of the U so start with a 1/16th bit and work up - otherwise the bit will walk into the channel and re-center there. I worked up to a 1/4" bit and that seems fine.This was designed in Autodesk 123D. I can't tell you which version - as I can find no way from the program to find that out. (2/27/2012) It's kind of a love-hate relationship. What it does it does very well - and that makes you fight what you then assume it will do well - but doesn't. I can say that you should peruse their help forum topics and for what you don't find ask with a new posting. They are exceedingly responsive and helpful. Fixed stl text reversal and changed placement on build platform for flat not tall print. Acquired a MK7 during the few hours it was available and will reprint and post that picture soon.I've printed this top down and it's prone to cracking from the hot top surface to the more rapidly cooling front and back edges. If this doesn't go too horribly you can check the cracks with a 1/16th hole at the tip of the crack (distributes forces) and some glue. I've even tried adding HBP temp control gcodes to walk the temp down with mixed results. That might work if done after the very first layer.Right now I'm trying printing on end. Almost got one with the MK6 but it came loose on the bottom. So MK-7 and a raft? Well, between MK7 and dating ReplicatorG and firmware I can't get it to print this as anything but a half inchish rectangle. Something is amiss but I haven't isolated that yet. Likely large file bug with new RG / FW?