UPDATED 02/09/14 - and now, for something completely different ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:245431 UPDATED 03/07/13 - thank you to all who "liked" my project, but if you are serious about building one, you really should consider building this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20398 It's a great "Thing" and is complete. A year later I went back to build mine and found it to be incomplete This is my version of a semi-completely printable spherebot drawn using google sketchup. I started out with the intent to make it completely printable, but Easter is coming and at the rate I'm going, I would be lucky to have it done in time for drawing on Christmas ornaments,so I've abandoned the "completely" printable part and used 1/4" rods for the frame and M3's for mounting the steppers and 5/16 bolt for the egg cup holder. If you download the "Spherebot all files" file, you get the sketchups, STL's, Gcodes all in one I have printed it as seen in the pics, however, I have already detected a potential flaw in that I'm only using 3 1/4" threaded rods for the frame and that missing 4th corner is causing my egg to skew a bit when mounted. My problem is, if I add a 4th rod, it interferes with the position of the pen ... I think I can work around the 4th corner missing so I've spent most of my time trying to figure out what's wrong with my wiring cause the best I can get is the egg spinning and the servo lifting/dropping the pen ... I guess most people will not be able to print the full set in one session. I can't do it on my Prusa Mendel. But one way or another, you'll need to print the 2 sides (stepper side, bearing side) and the back as well as the egg cups from thing:13960 and use the pen holder from thing:7988 (Thanks and kudos to rrhb and berserker for their great work on which this is based. Not to mention zaggo (thing:7656)I cut 1/4 rod at 7" lengths, then threaded them thru the stepperback.stl and then attached the sides. This is a pain because you have to spin the threaded rod with your fingers. In retrospect, it's just better to use smooth rod cause the holes will fit tight enough to hold in place, but then, I'm not the brightest star in the galaxy.I used a 5/16" bolt and a skateboard bearing on the one side of the frameNow, if I can figure out why my electronics don't want to do what I want them to do...anyway, I hope you enjoy it and if you get one working, let me know cause I'd sure like to see someone be successful. OR if you improve this design and goodness knows that should be easy, let me know and I'll use yours.