I wanted a way to demonstrate, at the 2014 Seattle Mini Maker Faire, how a pinhole camera projects an image onto film. The PINH5AD is a large format pinhole camera I designed to work with a 4X5 sheet film holder. This frame replaces the film holder for the purpose of visualizing the (inverted and rotated) image formed through the pinhole. Because the image will be faint (pinholes are, by definition, small apertures), some kind of hood or drape will be necessary to block ambient light. My testing suggests that only the brightest light sources are resolved using a pinhole. Alas. For an example of what this looks like, see the "MAKES" section. --> You've seen old-time "view cameras" in movies - this is exactly how the "view" is composed before the film is exposed after swapping the ground glass for a loaded film holder. This will fit any camera that uses a standard 4X5 film holder. The glass plate is held precisely 3mm from the face of the holder, duplicating the position of the film. In a pinhole camera there is no one focal distance, but for lensed cameras, maintaining correct focal distance is crucial for composing and focusing the scene you want to capture. ATTENTION This work is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial license. This license applies only to the files and documents available for download from the Thing Files section of this Thing. All other related content (photographs, videos, and verbiage such as contained in "Description" or "Instructions" ) are excluded from this license. with all rights reserved, unless specifically available for download This notice constitutes a clarification, not a change, to licensing for this design. You will also need: 8 - 3M x 8 machine screws (or similar 1/8" hardware) Appropriate tap for threads The retainer is intended to be screwed to the holder, sandwiching the plate of ground glass in place. If the glass should break (don't drop it!) the glass can be replaced. The glass plate I used measured a nominal 122 x 100mm. I designed-in a little tolerance for the glass, but still needed to remove a sliver of material from both ends to get the glass to fit nicely. I drilled out the retainer holes and tapped the holder holes (from underneath) for 3mm screws. It should go without saying, but I'll say it: plastic threads are not very strong! Use a light touch when assembling this. For maximum accuracy, print with a layer height that factors evenly into 1mm; I used 0.25mm layer height. PS, let these parts cool on the printer bed before popping them off - any prying while warm may irreparably warp them. Ask me how I know this.