The idea is to use a 3D printer to make office stationary stamps. Actually, the ABS stamp you produce is more like a wood cut, but works almost as good as a soft rubber stamp. Impressions are much improved by having a stack of paper under the sheet you are printing on. Each stamp impression is slightly different is the good and bad news.I remember (a LOT of years ago) having to put my initials in black Indian ink onto every piece of clothing for Summer camp and later in high-school gym class. Having a monogram stamp and some suitable permanent ink would have sure saved time. Woodworkers might find this handy to initial the bottom of their finished projects.The files here are for the stamp base, a cover, a demo PAID stamp face plus an additional file with a blank face for you to add backwards reading 3D text to make whatever stamp you need. The finished stamp size is 48mm X 18mm (WxH) Using text is optional - an icon or hand drawing would work as well.The cover fits over your inked up stamp to prevent making a giant mess when you are done using it.The top photo shows a slightly retouched PAID in red ink. I have filled in some voids, and black spots within the letters for the sake of the photo's appearance. Switching from black to red ink for the photo was a mistake on my part, but red ink seemed like a better final color.EDITED 08-12-12 The STL rendering problem described below seems to have been fixed.Thingiverse's rendered image of the PAID stamp face seems to have been reversed somehow - the 3D letters should read backward for the stamp to print correctly as the 1st and 2nd photos show.This idea works good - you get a perfectly useable stamp that gets across a short messages.The attached files were run on a MakerBot using the stock 0.5mm extrusion diameter. You would be able to make smaller letters then those printed here, but I was not able to go much smaller without losing letter detail and increasing the amount of time in getting the stamp face to work right.The following applies to the FILL menu in SkeinForge 0007r0 - the latest version as of 7/31/10 I think.Print the base and cover from the STL files below using your usual SkeinForge settings. I set FILL SOLIDITY RATIO to 0.2 in the FILL menu for the base.Try doing the PAID stamp face, or your custom stamp piece with EXTRA SHELLS ON ALTERNATING LAYERS set to 1, EXTRA SHELLS ON BASE set to 2, EXTRA SHELLS ON SPARCE LAYERS set to 1, INFILL SOLIDITY set to 0.9 and INTERIOR INFILL DENSITY OVER EXTERIOR DENSITY set to 0.9. Some of that seems just the opposite to what you would think, but does fill the inside of the 3D text in better. Did I mention that many of the menu settings in SkeinForge are still a mystery to me?If someone finds a combo of SkeinForge settings to fill the inside of the 3D text in better, please let me know.When choosing a font for your own stamp, try finding one you like that is made up of solid lines. The thin lined fonts I tried did not work at all. Whatever 3D software you are using probably has a plugin for using text to make logos. The usual operation is to enter your text, extrude it to 3D, flip it to read reverse, place it into the stamp face (file below) and then boolean add (or boolean union) the two objects together.EDITED 08-12-12 Many of the current 3D printers do not have a magnetic base that is easy to remove. I would use a piece of double back (carpet) tape and a scrape of wood to help with the sanding process if that is the case.After the face text is finished printing, I left it attached to the platform to give me a better grip on the object for sanding. The 3D text prints out 4 layers high - about 1.3mm on my machine. Sand with 220A paper or finer to level and help fill in the 3D letters. I did a light sanding followed by test stamp presses, then repeated the process a few times until the stamp impression was good before detaching from the platform and gluing it to the base. For attaching the stamp face to the base, I used household glue called GOOP.As an aside, I have found you can put a liberal layer of acetone onto mating ABS surfaces with a solder brush, then press the pieces together and hold in a vise for several minutes. The junction it produces is like fusing the pieces together. Acetone (paint thinner) is stuff you want to use with care - flammable, bad on the eyeballs and not to be injested.