This is my attempt at creating a "no-parallax" rig for a GoPro Hero 3 so I can create nice 360x180 spherical panoramas easy. http://youtu.be/oYWrfCssPI8 You will not be able to capture a perfect panorama without something similar. Not handheld and certainly not with a multi-lens rig... You will also need: If you use the optional "light" GoPro mount (goprolight.stl) you will also need a 4 mm by 10 mm bolt and nut to secure the lens. This mount will make it possible to orient the camera anyway you want! The light mount has two "dents", by which you can align the camera side, and getting the image (4:3) diagonal horizontal or vertical. The horizontal diagonal orientation will however need additional washers as spacers, which may affect the nodal settings. The mount is intentionally made "tight" so you will need to sand or cut the inner diameter to some extent for a perfect fit. You may need a zip-tie to secure the bearing and some additional screws and washers. You will also need to thread the small gear with a 1/4" thread to use a standard tripod mount. Of course you will also need some form of servo control: I've created a "hole" in the GoPro mount (see stl file) where you can put a 5 mm light sensitive diode connected to your controlboard, and with the appropriate programming you can create a fully automatic panorama rigg... Since the camera will flash a light when a photo is taken in timelapse mode (and other times as well). I haven't figured out everything my self yet, and I'm not a 100% sure the rig is completely parallax-free. But I've been looking for something similar for a long time without success, so why not try my self. Read about parallax: http://wiki.panotools.org/Parallax [EDIT] I've tested the rig (photo included) and the plastic fork is about 3 meters from the camera, and the newspaper at 11 meters. It looks pretty close... [EDIT] Added an optional "light" GoPro mount that enables other camera orientations. [EDIT] Added a panorama example photo. It was stitched with Hugin (no manual edits) and I removed the marks in the snow in Gimp. Who said you needed a lot of expensive equipment and software to create good panoramas? [EDIT] Added a photo of the more or less finished rig! Using a "Trinket" micro-controller and a photo-resistor as trigger for the GoPro timelaps, set at 5 second interval. 8 photos covers all 360x180 in less than 40 seconds. Trinket and photo-resistor is mounted in custom printed parts, but it's SO custom, it's not much use to upload the STL's. For power I use an USB emergency charger, that's lighter than a 9V battery, and gives me exactly 5V to use, but any mini-USB power cable could be used. Panoramas are captured absolutely perfectly in 60+ MP. Just don't forget to use lens calibration...This is modell number six or seven, I've lost count. I use FreeCad to create my STL files. It's a nice and "simple" software, but it's prone to crashing when i delete elements of a part or measurements. My aim is to create a rig with a GoPro configured to capture stills automatically in time-lapse mode. Just reset or power on the Arduino and everything happens automatically in 30-40 seconds (maby). I've printed in PLA, but I think some parts will be better in ABS. The GoProBase plate, with the tabs to hold the bearing in place is a little brittle in PLA... I've crated a small breadboard shield for an Arduino Uno to test with. With the 9 V battery it's really getting heavy and "flimsy". Final version may be an Arduino Mini and a 2 cell lipo... My Arduino code ( nine photos, you take the one looking down manually): (you may need to modify servo values on row 16-17) // Heavely modified "Sweep" by Klas Karlsson to support // GoPro spherical panorama rig #include <Servo.h> Servo myservoh; // define variable for horizontal Servo myservov; // define variable for vertical int del = 15; // servo stabilisation delay int posh = 90; // servo start position int posv = 90; int seqh[] = { 0, 22, 45, 67, 90, 112, 135, 157, 157, 90 }; // Horizontal movement, last number resets position int seqv[] = { 50, 110, 50, 110, 50, 110, 50, 110, 180, 90 }; // Vertikal movement, last number resets position int steps = 10; // How many steps in program void setup() { delay(5000); // Start by waiting... myservoh.attach(10); // Connect horizontal servo to pin 10 delay(1000); // Wait a second myservov.attach(9); // Connect vertical servo to pin 9 delay(5000); // Wait 5 seconds for(int sekv = 0; sekv < steps; sekv++) { // Run the sequence once movev(seqv[sekv]); // sequence step vertical, call function moveh(seqh[sekv]); // sequence step horizontal, call function delay(5000); // wait for 5 sec so you can take a picture } delay(15000); // All done, wait 15 seconds } void loop() { } void movev(int valv) { // Function to move vertical servo to the next position if (posv >= valv) { for(posv; posv >= valv; posv -= 1) { myservov.write(posv); delay(del); } } else { for(posv; posv < valv; posv += 1) { myservov.write(posv); delay(del); } } } void moveh(int valh) { // Function to move horizontal servo to the next position if (posh >= valh) { for(posh; posh >= valh; posh -= 1) { myservoh.write(posh); delay(del); } } else { for(posh; posh < valh; posh += 1) { myservoh.write(posh); delay(del); } } } There's a photo taken with the rig and the code above in the Gallery. No manual reference points was needed in Hugun, but it helped to have used the software lens calibration.