A wall sconce that projects a Victorian wallpaper design on the wall. Dozens of ways to customize and prints great on consumer FDM printers!This project involves soldering, small-parts and electrical components. You assume all risks and liabilities should you wish to undertake it. Print it: The sconce is a single plastic part. The cutouts have extremely fine details that may exceed the resolution of your printer. Even though some of the details will be filled in, the final shadow will still capture the essence of the pattern and should still look good. Don't fret the details -- all my test prints were done successfully with a consumer FDM printer at 0.2mm layer height and retraction enabled. I'm very pleased with the results! Support is necessary for the arm but is not desired for the sconce body as it messes with the details of the cutouts. I added a brim underneath the sconce walls to prevent Cura from printing support in that region. Set "Support type" to "Touching buildplate" so that the the arm will get support but the sconce walls will not. Light it up: My LED was a de-domed Cree XM-L2 on a 16mm star (de-doming is the process of removing the silicon lens, which can reduce the apparent size of the LED). This LED was probably oversized. I am not able to run it at anywhere near the max current and the shadows aren't as sharp as I would have liked. If I were to do it again, I would have tried a LED with a smaller die size to sharpen my shadows. A smaller LED would also eliminate the need to de-dome the LED, which is a delicate, possibly destructive step, so I would recommend you start with a smaller LED like the Cree XP-E2. Power it: The LED will run off 3-4V, so you will need a suitable power supply. I used a recycled 12V wall wart combined with a adjustable micro DC-DC step-down converter from e-bay. The particular one I used was listed as "10pcs Mini DC-DC Converter Step Down Module Adjustable Output 1-17V for RC PLANE" and sold by axeprice. This DC converter is really tiny and fits into the cutout I made on the backside of the sconce. The converter has an adjustable output voltage, so you can tune the brightness of the LED and balance it against heat generation. Cool it: My LED came mounted on a 16mm star. This provides some degree of cooling, but you can get more cooling with a heat-sink. I removed the rubber liner from a bottle cap with a heat gun and mounted my LED to it using Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive. This gave me additional cooling while still being low-profile enough to fit inside the sconce. Assemble it: Assembly consists of soldering the various parts together. Be very careful about the polarity of the components. The following build sequence worked for me: Tune it: Once you first plug it in, run your sconce and monitor it to make sure the LED is not overheating. If it is, dial back the voltage on the DC-to-DC converter. You want the LED to run warm, but not hot enough to melt the plastic or cause a fire hazard. Do not run the sconce unattended until you have monitored it for several hours to make sure heat is not a problem. Customize it: The sconce and wallpaper pattern is customizable. You can do modifications online using the Customizer. For even more complex patterns, download the OpenSCAD file and follow the instructions in it on how to convert any SVG file from Inkscape into a wallpaper pattern. Be aware that not all wallpaper designs are printable (at least not on a FDM printer). There cannot be islands or downward hanging points in the cutouts. For example, the letter O has an island that cannot be printed and a heart symbol has a downward hanging point on the top that cannot be printed. Non-printable designs can sometimes be fixed by adding vertical supports or breaking them up into parts. Getting a good design takes care. The ones I provided have been tested and give a good print. Credits and Inspiration: