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Printing in PC
Has anyone ever tried printing with polycarbonate?
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nyl0cke - I haven't printed in PC, but I've heard from others about it. Its like Nylon, its petty hydroscopic, so you'll want to keep it in a dry and warm environment to keep it dry. If it is wet it becomes cloudy and kinda "crispy", as in rice crispies, when you print with it. I think you can print it on blue painters tape unheated like PLA (and Nylon if you're RichRap) but you'll want to double check on that. Temps are best around 280-310 range. You can print it a bit colder, but you will suffer from adhesion problems.
7 years, 11 months ago
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aeauto - Thanks for that info. Do you know if it has curling issues like nylon and ABS?
7 years, 11 months ago
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nyl0cke - I'm not sure how bad but every thermoplastic has warping issues, its just because the way materials work. PLA has warping issues if you do it wrong. I have heard about it being printed on a PEI bed at around 100C with good results as well. PEI offers good no warp build material for nearly every printing plastic (except Nylon (sticks poorly) and Ninjaflex (I think it would stick too aggressively considering how well it sticks to Kapton))
7 years, 11 months ago
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aeauto - I will look into a PEI bed. I have an aluminum heated bed right now. Thanks again
7 years, 11 months ago
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sd3dprinting - You need a gradient free heated bed and build environment to achieve warp - free printing. Additionally, your machine must print on a bed leveled to within approximately 10 microns across the entire print area. PEI definitely helps due to its specific material properties, but it's just another bandaid (ie. blue painters tape) over the real problem of abysmal temperature gradients on desktop 3D printers. If you do go with a PEI bed make sure to use transfer tape to avoid warping the PEI plate itself. A glass reinforced plate will resist warping but can be much more costly (ie. Ultem 2300).
7 years, 11 months ago
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2 years, 4 months ago
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